With Hunter-esque journalist Smith throwing himself into the centre of the action, this is a sun-bleached, breakneck account of power, money, crime, and surfing.
'Love him or hate him, he's the most stylish writer [surfing] has seen for decades.' —Fred Pawle, the Australian
'Absolutely the most entertaining surf book in years, a breathless adrenalized romp. More importantly, it's a jaw-dropping introduction to Smith's greatest – and most promising – literary creation, himself.' – Dan Duane, author of Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast
'Gleeful defiance and feral wit ... fuel this compulsive, wild ride of a book' —the Age
'A hip exposé of Hawaii's North Shore surfing culture ... entertains, while superior reporting informs and illuminates much about the surf industry's peculiar machinations, its cavalcade of sun-bleached heroes and the troubled history of Hawaii itself ... effortlessly shifting from the profound to the profane.' —Kirkus
Chas Smith is a regular contributor and editor at large at Surfing Magazine, and has also contributed to Vice, GQ, Blackbook, Stab and the New York Times T Magazine.
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Creators
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Publisher
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Release date
August 1, 2016 -
Formats
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OverDrive Read
- ISBN: 9781922231291
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EPUB ebook
- ISBN: 9781922231291
- File size: 2332 KB
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Accessibility
No publisher statement provided -
Languages
- English
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Reviews
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